Holy Cross Church, Mwnt
This clifftop church and its font are thought to date from the 13th century. Inside you can see unusual medieval roof trusses. The photo of the church in 1924 is shown here courtesy of Ceredigion Archives.
Pilgrims would stop at Mwnt while travelling between St Davids and Ynys Enlli (Bardsey) via the shrine at St Mary’s Church, Cardigan. Enlli was quicker to reach by direct boat than by going overland to the tip of the Llŷn Peninsula. It’s believed that the church had a mortuary chapel where people could keep vigil over the bodies of saints awaiting a boat to Enlli, a renowned burial place for devoted Christians.
According to local legend, many medieval Flemish refugees were buried near the church after landing at Mwnt. They were killed by locals in a battle which stained the land red. For many centuries, the first Sunday of each year was known as “Sul Coch y Mwnt” (the red Sunday of Mwnt). Mock battles and games were played.
In the 19th century, local residents recalled that the congregation at Mwnt had dwindled to only two regular worshippers before a sermon in 1800 by the Rev Ebenezer Morris – an Anglican clergyman who leaned towards Methodism – inspired many people in the area to join various churches, particularly at Mwnt. In the following years, preachers with similar leanings often met here.
One of the few regulars throughout this time was Catrin Tomos, who refused to switch to a Nonconformist chapel. In 1865 a writer who knew her in her last few years claimed that she’d worshipped at Mwnt church every Sunday for about 80 years. Even when gales were blowing off the sea, Catrin would plod along the path to the church, leaning on her walking stick.
Outside the church is the grave of Private James Jones Jenkins of the South Wales Borderers who died in 1917 aged 25. Nearby are buried Mary Ann Davies of Tŷ Gwyn and her sister Dorothy. They died within 15 days of each other in 1933, aged 65 and 62.
Harvest and Christmas services continue at the church, and open-air services in summer.
Postcode: SA43 1QH View Location Map
Church website
Website of Ceredigion Archives
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