St Celynnin’s old church, Llangelynnin
This rustic church stands in a spectacular and remote spot in the foothills of Snowdonia’s Carneddau mountains. In prehistoric and Roman times, people travelled across the uplands in this region. The old track which passes outside the churchyard was once a main route between Penmaenmawr and the Conwy Valley.
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The church is of rubble construction. The nave is thought to date from the 12th or 13th century, the remains of the rood screen from the 15th and the roof from the 16th. Inside, on the east wall, is a drawing of a skull and crossed bones (pictured left), uncovered in 1993. It is part of the prominent Creed and Ten Commandments, which were uncovered in the early 20th century.
In 1840 the church was replaced by a new building, also dedicated to St Celynnin, in a more accessible location near Rowen. The newer church is deconsecrated but services are still occasionally held, usually in summer, at the old church.
In the old churchyard is a well which, like the church, is dedicated to St Celynnin. The well was once thought to have healing powers, especially for children.
St Celynnin lived in the 6th century and was reputedly one of the 12 sons of Helig ap Glannog, who lost his court, known as Llys Helig, when the sea inundated it. As a result of this loss, the sons lived devout lives, some as monks. St Celynnin reputedly founded the old Llangelynnin church near Barmouth, coincidentally replaced by a new Llangelynnin church at almost the same time as this one was.
The rector of Llangelynnin, the Rev Richard Llewelyn Headley, lost his younger son in the Second World War. Lieutenant William Arthur Headley was stationed with the Royal Artillery in Hong Kong and died as a prisoner of war in October 1942, aged 32. Richard’s other son, Major the Rev L Victor Headley, survived Japanese captivity after the fall of Singapore.
In August 2020 the Rev Eryl Parry was ordained in the church by the Rt Rev Andy John, the Bishop of Bangor. The ceremony could not be held in Bangor Cathedral (the usual venue for ordinations) because of restrictions during the Covid-19 pandemic. The bishop, Eryl and the small number of guests wore masks over their noses and mouths. It was probably the first ordination of a priest here, and certainly the first ordination of a female priest here. The post-ordination photo (thanks to photographer Mark McNulty) shows her in her walking boots with the bishop, holding his mask in his right hand.
The lane past the churchyard was used by drovers, who rested livestock in the nearby sheepfold.
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